Yves St. Laurent received the macabre treatment when he dressed actress/muse Catherine Deneuve for the 1983 horror/suspense film The Hunger, also starring David Bowie and Susan Sarandon. Deneuve’s wardrobe showed the darkest reaches of St. Laurent’s range — acclimating to the hardness of the 80’s, notably designers Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana, he had French glamor and sexual subversion easing his way.
Perhaps it was this macabre treatment that inspired Martin Margiela‘s second reiteration of the squared shoulder in his fall 2007 collection (if in fact it was him). The severity and darkness of the mood is vampire worthy, and certainly those graphic shoulders don’t shy away from Deneuve’s YSL wardrobe, complete with his signature shoulder. But the real give away is the soundtrack of Bauhaus’ Bela Lugosi’s Dead as it creeps along in the opening scene of The Hunger and on Margiela’s catwalk, connecting the two not so disparate visions of the night.