Karl Lagerfeld shaped it into a venerable brand at a time when ready-to-wear was still creeping in the shadow of couture’s creative (and partly manufactured) supremacy. In the late 90’s it was Stella McCartney and later her associate Phoebe Philo who turned it into a cult label stirring the desires of women around the world. But from 1984 to 1985 there was a short interim when designer Guy Paulin gave the house his own mark, ultimately unsuccessful, his more relaxed and less conveniently feminine look has added depth to the history of the brand’s DNA. Having a look might help interpret the direction that the current designer, Hannah McKibbon, has taken the house.
Encens Magazine has a fantastic story on Paulin and the work he did in issue 25.