Monthly Archives: July 2010

Esprit, 1987

Spring looks by Oliviero Toscani

Esprit’s Susie Tompkins started the company out of San Francisco when she felt dissatisfied with American fashions after a trip to Europe.  Their ad campaigns shot by Toscani (who is also known for his United Colors of Benneton campaigns) embolden the clothes with a carefree ease and optimistic reality that perhaps could only come from Northern California.

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Matthew Ames Fall 2010 Campaign

Photographer Sybille Walter and stylist Samuel Drira contextualize Matthew Ames’ fall 2010 collection in an exclusively urban locale – highlighting the clothes’ profound ease and appropriateness for city dwelling.

And for your interweb social butterflies, do check out Matthew’s new
facebook page.

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Christophe Lemaire, Spring 2011

Hermes’ next womens’ design director, Christophe Lemaire, presents his Spring 2011 RTW collection during the Haute Couture presentations in Paris providing a provocative if not compelling preview of what’s to come.

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Kaisik Wong

In 2002 Kaisik Wong was rescued from the pits of obscurity that almost all California based American designers find themselves in at the end of or beyond their careers. Balenciaga’s Nicholas Ghesquire used the San Franciscan’s work as a key reference for his spring 2002 collection.  Wong’s ornate use of patchwork and collage was  so inspiring the esteemed wunderkind was even suggested to have copied the late designer.

Wong’s designs have come to embody a fiercely avant-garde strain of American fashion that has for the most part kept to the west coast.  If American fashion is continuously mocked for producing drab and and boring sportswear it is a lack of demand and not supply that is to blame. Wong worked strictly in his own fantastic realm, reimagining the lives of Atlanteans, Lemurians, and other mythic civilizations, all through the lens of the pacific rim and its multi-cultural synergy with the far east (which is ironically occidental to California). His unusual shapes were just as odd as his colors and materials:  alien, ancient, and artificial all at once.  Most notable however is his use of extremely detailed and laborious handwork, developing a framework for couture that is not dependent on Paris, but on the crafts and traditions of China, India, Korea, Japan, etc.

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