The first thing that came to mind when I saw the Celine resort collection was 1970’s Kraut Rock and its aspirations of simplicity, abstraction, and a look towards the future. The second was this old collection by Raf Simons. Hesitant to call out any spiritual motivations, but definitely it’s a whole new outlook we have here…
Celine Ad from 1972
Celine Ad from 1978
So many fashion houses have built a business on the tenants of bourgeois taste, perhaps no more than Celine who enjoyed the extent of this under Michael Kors’ design direction from 1997 to 2004. He established the reticent DNA for a label whose origins began as a children’s shoemaker and later evolved into American glamor, for those whose memory had been cut short by flashier and trendier labels, or for the young, Kors gave the brand an image and some codes, something for association. He left to concentrate on his own label though his collections for Celine had been well received by both critics and customers, and he took with him any identity or connection to the times Celine had. Former Burberry designer Roberto Menichetti was hired as replacement, after two terribly unsuccessful collections he was switched out with former Prada designer Ivana Omazic. At Celine she proved that she was a talented enough designer but failed to bring the label back to its good health under Kors, essentially she failed to bring the name up to par with the stars of the scene; Alber Elbaz, Nicholas Ghequiere, Ricardo Tisci, Stefano Pilati, Marc Jacobs, Olivier Theyskens, etc. The house went completely unnoticed during her tenure. Enter Philo.
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